Buying guide
Updated October 25, 2026 · 4 min read
Fabric spec sheets and upholsterers use a lot of trade terms. Here's what they mean, in plain language, with links to the guides that go deeper.
How well a fabric stands up to rubbing. Measured with the Wyzenbeek test (double rubs) or the Martindale test (cycles). See double rubs explained.
A layer bonded or coated onto the back of a fabric to give it stability, often added to loosely woven or delicate fabrics so they can be used for upholstery.
A fabric that can be cleaned with a diluted bleach solution without fading or damage, at the ratio its spec sheet gives. See bleach-cleanable fabric.
A fabric woven from looped yarns, giving a nubby, textured surface. See velvet vs. chenille vs. bouclé.
A soft, fuzzy fabric woven from chenille yarn, which has short fibres standing out all around it. See chenille.
A letter telling you what a fabric can be cleaned with: W (water-based), S (solvent), W/S (either) or X (vacuum only). See cleaning codes.
A fabric whose colour won't run, fade or rub off easily, whether from washing, light or rubbing.
One colour version of a pattern. The same design often comes in many colourways, shown together on each fabric page.
Fabric made and tested for commercial use, usually with high durability ratings, easy cleaning and flammability testing. See commercial upholstery fabric.
Colour rubbing off a fabric onto other surfaces, such as a dark fabric marking light clothing. Also the reverse: dye from new jeans transferring onto a light sofa.
A brand of performance fabric technology with built-in stain, moisture and odour resistance. See Crypton vs. performance fabric.
A woven pattern, often symmetrical and floral, where the design is created by contrasting weaves rather than print. See damask.
The Wyzenbeek measure of durability: how many back-and-forth rubs a fabric survives before wearing. See double rubs explained.
A batch of fabric dyed at the same time. Colour can vary slightly between lots, so order all the fabric for a project at once.
How a fabric feels to the touch: soft, crisp, smooth, nubby, heavy or light.
How far across the fabric a pattern runs before it starts again.
A fabric with a complex pattern woven in on a Jacquard loom, rather than printed on top. Damasks, brocades and tapestries are jacquards.
The durability test used in Europe and much of the world, counted in cycles. It can't be reliably converted to double rubs.
A fabric woven to look quilted, with a raised, padded pattern. See matelassé.
A very fine, tightly woven synthetic fabric with a soft, suede-like surface, popular with pet owners. See microsuede.
The raised surface of fabrics like velvet and chenille. Nap fabrics look lighter or darker depending on the direction you view them from, so every piece should be cut in the same direction.
Upholstery fabric built to resist stains, fading, wear or moisture better than ordinary fabric. See performance fabric.
Small balls of fibre that form on the surface where a fabric is rubbed. They can be removed with a fabric shaver.
A fabric whose pattern runs across the roll, so it can be used sideways and cover long pieces like sofa backs without seams. See railroaded vs. up the roll.
The size of one complete unit of a pattern before it starts again. Large repeats need extra fabric to match. See how much fabric do I need?
The finished edges along both sides of the roll, which stop the fabric fraying. They're trimmed off before cutting and usually aren't counted in the usable width.
A slightly thicker spot in a yarn that gives fabric, especially linen, its natural irregular texture.
Fibre that is coloured before it's spun, so the colour runs all the way through. Solution-dyed fabrics resist fading and many can be bleach cleaned.
A heavy fabric with a multicoloured pattern woven in, giving a rich, traditional look. See tapestry.
A fabric whose pattern runs along the length of the roll, the usual direction for upholstery. Wide pieces may need a seam.
How far down the fabric a pattern runs before it starts again. This is the repeat that affects yardage most.
How wide the fabric is from selvage to selvage. Upholstery fabric is almost always 54 inches; drapery and sheer fabric can be 110 inches or more.
The abrasion test used in North America to measure double rubs.
The amount of fabric you need, measured in yards. One yard is 36 inches (about 91 cm). Use our yardage calculator.